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Ao Tea Roa,
"the Land of the Long White Cloud". That is what the ancient Polynesian
voyagers called New Zealand and that is exactly what it looked like
to us as we approached the Northern Island at dawn of the last day
of our five day passage from the Kingdom of Tonga to New Zealand.
We were less than 40 nm from our final destination of New Zealand
and we had traveled 10,287 nm since our trip began last November
11 in Seattle. At 1330 we were anchored off the customs wharf at
Opua in the Bay of Islands.
After clearing
customs we anchored in the harbor at Russell, just across the bay.
It's Saturday 20 October here, Friday 19 October for you, and there
are about 100 sailboats just completing the "Coastal Classic" sailboat
race that started on Friday night in Auckland, 130 nm south of here.
This is the highlight of the Auckland sailboat racing season and
we heard on the radio that only a fraction of the 250 sailboats
that started the race have finished, with two boats dismasted and
two on the beach due to those same strong winds that we experienced
at sea. The difference is that the sailboats had the wind right
on their nose and pouring down rain. Most of the sailboats have
cushions and sailing gear scattered all over the decks and decorating
their boom to dry. Deja vu, our sailboat racing memories, buried
in the distant parts of our minds, come floating to the surface.
Not Fun! We are happy to be on our "skookum" long distance cruiser,
Starr. This weekend is a three day weekend which marks the beginning
of the Kiwi summer, with Monday called Labor Day. Russell feels
much like Roche Harbor in our San Juan Islands or Ganges in British
Columbia. Maybe it feels a little like Victoria just after Swiftsure,
with the exhausted but jubilant racing sailors all about. For Don
and I it feels very strange and still a little unreal to have arrived
at our end destination, one we have been traveling toward for almost
a year. Since the MAF inspector (agriculture) took all of our meat,
eggs, fruit and veggies, we go ashore to walk around and to buy
a few fresh veggies for dinner. The scenery looks like home but
the people talk a little funny. In the morning we have coffee on
the flying bridge. The sun is out, there is a misty fog encircling
the large bay but at a distance from our anchorage. The decks are
cold and wet on our bare feet, the surfaces of Starr are wet with
dew and now, we feel as if we are back at home. This feels like
Seattle, the San Juan Islands and British Columbia in the summer.
This is exactly what it is like. We have come home to New
Zealand and best of all, the summer is just beginning
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